Make sure you have one main focus point

Before you press the shutter button to take your next photo, you need to ask yourself one question. What is the focal point, or central point of interest, in this photo? Where does the eye rest when looking at the scene? Being able to critique your photos is one of the steps towards success.

Remember that you can have various points of interest, but this should not distract from the main subject. If this happens, the viewer might be unsure what to look at. The most obvious way to ensure you have one focus point is to get closer to your subject – fill the frame with it. This works particularly well with flowers and portraits.

Kudu antelope as main focus point: Always make time to evaluate your own photography -ensure that you have one main focus point in your image.

Details

Details is an important way to compel viewers to look even deeper into your photos. Simply showing them what they are already able to see in real life won’t get you that second glance. When someone looks at the image, it is important to evoke that emotion and get the imagination working. There are many different methods to work detail into your work, some of which include taking a step back to showcase the bigger picture, using lines and texture and sticking to single points of interest in your subjects. It is therefore important to look at your photos in depth and critique your photos. It is even useful joining photography groups and clubs that critique photos just so you can learn and improve.

Detailed spiderweb: Viewers can read a photograph in many ways, but lots of details is a good method to give that wow factor, to keep their glance a little longer.

Composure (sense of organization) placement, lighting, background, keep it simple

Composure is the one element that can help you to create a masterpiece from the dullest object or subject. The correct focal length or crop, aperture and also the angle plays a very important role in the end results. Play around with the lighting and background if you can, and always remember to keep it relatively simple. You don’t always need a lot of details in a photo to achieve the perfect end results. By being critical about these aspects and evaluating your photography in this way, you will achieve a sense of organization in your work.

Sharp focus

Another step you can take to evaluate your own photography is to make sure your focus is tack sharp. To me, this is one of the most important aspects of a good photo. Once the image is blurry, there is no amount of editing that can fix it. Always review your photo on the camera playback screen after you have taken it. Despite the small screen, you will get some kind of idea of whether or not you are on the right track.

A good shortcut when shooting portraits or close-ups is to use a larger aperture. This will allow not only more light to enter, which gives more room for movement, but your photo backgrounds will seem less cluttered. This is a great way to get pin sharp focus on your main subject. Feel like cheating? Switch your camera dial to portrait or macro mode if you don’t shoot in one of the manual functions. With people and animals, always remember to focus on the eyes.

Sharp focus on bug and flower: Evaluate the quality of your pictures by creating close up images. Without sharp focus you won’t draw the attention of those that look at your work.

Creativity

Review photos of professionals all the time. Look at what they do and find ways to do things differently. This is one of the ways in which you can get creative, another way to evaluate your photography and improve on your work and style.

View from a bridge: Get creative. Sometimes adding more than just the view in front of you can give surprising results. Always try different things.

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‘Practise makes perfect’ is an overused and clichéd phrase, could not be further from the truth. The more you use your camera, the better value you will get from your investment. It’s almost like going for camera lessons, or photography classes, but without having to pay for it. It is actually very easy to create your own photography exercises.

Shoot what’s around you: You can become a better photographer by shooting what is around you, whether in the garden or in your house

Photography exercises help you look at things differently

This is the perfect photography assignment for beginners. Walk around the house and find a subject, whether a piece of fruit or an interesting décor item. Shoot it from different angles. You can even change this photography exercise a little by shooting the same object for a few days in a row, but with the aim to get different results.

Everyday objects: I have an obsession with tennis, and decided to embark on a photoshoot on the tennis court. This assignment for beginners is a great way to create something out of nothing

Shoot moving objects

This photography exercise will teach you about shutter speed, anticipation and timing. Whether you choose an energetic child, Ruphus the family dog, wild birds in your garden, or someone jogging down the road, these are perfect subjects to perfect your skills. Play around with the light, shutter speed and composition and eventually you will get perfect images without having to fiddle with every setting on your camera.

Bird in flight: Shoot moving objects. It can be anything from the family dog to the birds in yoru garden.

Create a shooting list

By far, the ideal photography assignment for beginners: Start by drawing up a list with different topics for each day. Add words such as dirt, trees, water, sun, spouse, candle, fork or bed. The only limit is your imagination, so go wild. Throw them in a hat. The idea is to draw one every day, or whenever you have time, and shoot the subject on the piece of paper. This way you harness your creativity fully. As you do so, you will be amazed at the results of your photography assignment.

Get connected

Get inspiration from the professionals and work on your shortcomings. When struggling with something, Youtube and other online platforms are perfect. With countless tutorials available, one click is all it takes. Secondly, photo sharing sites are great. I make a habit spending time on SlickPic (www.slickpic.com). This photo storage and sharing site is a great showcase of professional work and one can spend hours exploring – looking at what works, and where photos could be improved.

Change genres

You might have your specialities, but it is always good getting out of your comfort zone. Shoot the people in the house, or head outdoors and look for those crawling insects in the garden. Different genres might come with different challenges, and this is what will make you an even better photographer. Experimentation is good, so keep an open mind.

Bugs in the garden: This photography exercise for beginners will challenge you to do different things. I headed outside, sat down next to some plants, and looked at what I could find.

These are just some photography exercises to try, but the possibilities are endless. At the end of the day, practising in your own time at home will give you the opportunity to learn what your equipment is capable of, what the limitations are and how to get around those. Never stop shooting!

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Understanding image resolution

Image resolution is measured by the number of pixels per inch that shows up on a digital screen. You have probably also heard of the term dots per inch or DPI, but more about that later as it can be quite confusing.

The more pixels you have on your screen, the higher the image resolution. But what is a pixel? A pixel is a picture element – the smallest physical element of a digital device that the eye can distinguish. If you zoom in far enough, rows and rows of blocks show on your screen.

For web, pixels per inch do not matter as the sizes of devices, or your computer monitor is already set. Unless someone is going to take the image from the website and print it, an image with 72 pixels per inch displays the same as a 300 pixels per inch photo on all devices. This is where understanding image resolution for printing becomes more important.

Pixels per inch and printing

Pixels per inch are important when printing images. The more pixels you have per inch, the better the image resolution. This means that you will get better quality prints. Generally 240 or 300 pixels per inch are acceptable for printing. When it comes to large scale printing such as billboards, it can be larger than 300. The height and width of an image is also important to determine image resolution as PPI is only a relative measure.

You can think of the pixel per inch input as a way to adjust the physical size of the print-out. Decreasing the PPI will produce a lower quality image because pixels are larger and more visible.

Below a screenshot of an original image before it was resized. The original size of the photo is 4608 x 3072 as shown in the Adobe Photoshop file.

Understanding image resolution and size

Image size of smaller image

However, when the image was saved in a smaller format – below is how this changed the dimensions of the photo.

Image size of original

Now, you are probably asking how that makes a difference. The resolution of the small image have decreased so much, just look at the effect on the female walking in front when zoomed in. The pixels per inch have decreased so much that her hair alone is far less than 50 pixels.

Small resolution affects pixels per inch

But compare this to the original image – zoomed in. It becomes impossible to count the pixels in her hair alone.

Large resolution pixels per inch

What about image size?

Once you understand image size better as illustrated above, you will realise that size do matter. Larger images can be printed larger without pixelating as there are much more pixels per inch while the same is not true with smaller photos. Understand now why photos pixelate? You are that much closer to understanding image resolution

Today, we have the ability to shoot at any resolution and quality setting we want. But this comes at a price. With smaller sizes you sacrifice print quality, but bigger quality settings influence storage space. However, I will say that with the affordability of storage solutions these days, the birth of cloud storage and photo sharing and storing sites like SlickPic, there is really no excuse for not shooting at maximum quality. You can always make the image smaller if you want to use it online later.

Online media

Smaller file sizes are crucial if you want faster loading times on websites. For web one can generally set image size to 72 pixels per inch without problems.

For interest sake: Are more megapixels always better?

The short answer is NO. Just the other day one of the editors from a magazine sent out an email telling journalists that even with the great cameras on phones these days, chances are that they still might not be able to print those images. For a while I have also wondered why images on a phone’s 14mp camera do not look as good as the images from my actual 14mp camera. This comes down to the sensor size. The larger your sensor, the more light goes in. Without light you won’t get a photo.

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Aperture

Aperture is the first point on the photography exposure triangle, one of the important aspects of understanding exposure. Aperture in photography can be easily explained as the little hole in the camera lens that allows light to go into the camera. The smaller the hole, the less light enters. It is the same as your eye, or the pupil in your eye. In very bright conditions one often squints or your pupil goes smaller, keeping most of the light out. When it is darker, it is much easier to keep one’s eyes open.

In photography the aperture is indicated by the f-number. Now, for beginners this can seem slightly confusing, but the higher the number (f22), the smaller the aperture or opening, so it works the opposite way.  Lenses with smaller numbers (f2.5) allow more light through, so you can use a slower shutter in lower light conditions. Once you understand this concept, you are a step closer to understanding exposure.

The amount of light entering your camera also controls your depth of field, so will be the difference between a blurry and a busy background. Small apertures place everything in focus, while large wide apertures isolate your subject.

Grass up close with shallow aperture: When using a shallow aperture (low f-number), your background will be less busy.

Dam landscape with wide aperture: This picture was taken at f22 which is a very wide aperture. The smaller lens opening leaves much more of the photo in focus.

Shutter speed

The second concept on the photography exposure triangle is shutter speed.  This, or also the exposure time is the maximum amount of time that your camera sensor is exposed to light. If too much light enters, you will get bright, washed out images. Too little light in dark conditions can create dark or blurry images.

Shutter speed is always indicated in seconds but is displayed as 1/250, 1/125, 1/60 etc. At the same time, your camera can also go in the opposite direction where the measurement goes towards the second side for example 1 second, two seconds all the way up to 30 seconds. In low light conditions it will automatically be slower. It is also a great way to freeze motion, but remember to stabilize your camera.

Blurry spider: This is the perfect example of the terrible results achieved when not enough light enters the camera.

Waterfall with fast shutter speed: Snap the picture with the perfect exposure and this is the results you will get

Slow speed waterfall: Slow shutter speeds can also be used to freeze motion.

ISO

In the old days this part of the photography exposure triangle was determined by the film you purchased. Today, you press a button. ISO is the camera’s level of sensitivity to light and is measured 100, 200, 400, 800 etc. The lower the number, the less sensitive your camera will be to light. Higher numbers double the sensitivity to light, but come at a price. Pictures can appear grainy. However, in lower light conditions you might have to play around with the ISO part of the photography exposure triangle if you don’t want to compromise on speed and your aperture is already wide. In sunny conditions you can stick to 100.

Sunbird in low light: Most people would not have taken the photo. It was after sunset, but I have never seen a dusky sunbird at the time, so I upped my ISO to 1600 and took the photo anyway, just as a record shot so I could identify the bird afterwards. It is not sharp at all.

TIP: Try the f16 sunny rule in perfect sunny conditions.

If you are daring enough and ready to take your photography to the next level without looking at your light meter, you can simply try these manual settings. It is called the sunny f16 rule (or sunny 16 rule). It is relatively simple. During daylight, all you have to do is set your camera’s aperture to f16. Then, if your ISO is 200, your shutter speed will be 1/200th of a second. If ISO IS 100, this should be 1/100th of a second.
Remember to use your light meter to get the correct exposure. Once you get those perfect shots, why not upload them on https://SlickPic.com for safe storage. While it is much more private and protected than most public sites, you can even share them with family and friends!

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Here are some tips to make the journey to beautiful night pictures a little easier.

Firstly, choose the right equipment.

Tripod and shutter release

Apart from a camera, a sturdy tripod is crucial for night photography. Low light photography requires slower shutter speeds which can result in camera shake. The smallest movement can spoil that night picture, so use a shutter release cable. If you don’t have one, set your timer to two seconds to achieve perfection in night photography.

The lens

Choose a lens with the widest angle and the highest aperture. With a wide angle you fit more into the image. Lenses with high apertures (small f-number) allow more light into the camera, a big advantage when shooting in darkness or low light. Don’t have a wide angle? Never let your equipment limit your capabilities – I use my kit lens.

I used a torch app on my phone to light up the station. It was extremely dark and very difficult to get the desired results without doing that.

Flash light

Low light photography is not always easy, especially when it comes to focussing. Apart from helping with focus, torches can be used to light up subjects briefly for better night photography.  Play around with light painting techniques to add something different.

When taking night pictures, water can create a different scene. This photo was taken on a windy night, so the movement also contributes.

Then:

Set the scene for perfect night pictures

Water and lights can create interesting effects, whether you are out in nature or the city. Experiment and create interesting night photography scenes by playing with light trails. Try this with stars or moving vehicles, depending on the location.  Remember, light trails are not achieved with fast shutter speeds, so slow down and see the results.

Play around with your camera settings to perfect night photography. It is not always easy to get it right straight away.

Remember:

Never give up

Play with your camera settings for the best night pictures. Night photography is not easy, but once you get the perfect combination between ISO, shutter speed and aperture, it becomes easier. I remember spending hours trying to get the stars in focus, and eventually you will get it right. This brings me to the last point…

Light painting in the darkness of night.

Dress appropriately

Make sure you dress warm enough as it is always more rewarding to spend long hours outdoors. That perfect shot is never just 10 minutes away.

Looking for a trusted storage solution for your photos? Why not try SlickPic? Visit https://www.slickpic.com/ to see what you get.

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Fog or mist

If you are at the right time at the right place, you might get fog or mist to add a sense of mystery to your photos. Imagine the dense forest in the early morning with mist hanging over the floor, or that eerie graveyard on a foggy morning.

Simply having some clouds instead of a plain blue sky will enhance your photos and create moody images.

Storm clouds create moody images

This is a good method to add mood in photos, especially landscapes. The darker, more threatening the sky, the more moody photos generally are. Remember, dreary grey skies won’t have the same effect. This is typically achieved before a storm.

Adding storm clouds to any setting can create moody images

Ice or snow

That lonely tree in the distance covered in ice or snow gives the viewer the feeling of being left along in the cold. Play around with snow or ice to add some extra emotion in photos.

Low light

Low light is an easy way to create moody images naturally. If you shoot as darkness falls, the results will be different because of the slow shutter speed. Remember to use your tripod to prevent lens blur.

Transforming ordinary photos into black and white images is a good way to create a moody setting.

Colour galore

Play around with your colour temperatures settings while shooting or change it with post processing. Tungsten can create cooler colours while sunshine generally adds a feeling of warmth. Change an image to black and white and you can turn a normal photo into a moody photo.

Running water

This generally adds a calming effect to photos, especially when you use longer exposures. It freezes the motion, adding mood to your images. A picture of waves crashing on the beach can also take your viewers back to a time when they were on the beach, hence evoking emotion.

Rising early in the morning has its advantages. Dew drops create mood to any small images.

Dew drops

Enhance your pictures with dew or water drops, especially close up images. That spider web or flower with water droplets will give a sense of scale to images, just adding something extra.

Sunrises and sunsets

By simply adding a rising or setting sun into your images, you are guaranteed to create emotion Not only does it set a spectacular mood, but it is difficult to take a terrible photo if you include sunshine. Whether you shoot a landscape or people, it is bound to be a winner.

Instead of just shooting a normal scene, do it at sunset if you want to add mood.

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When new to photography, the automatic function is the easiest option, especially when terms such as aperture, shutter speed and ISO seem like another language. However, at some point you will struggle to get your camera to do what you want to achieve and it might be time to move on – to other dials that is, not a new camera. You would be surprised at the difference when you take control.

When I first started I kept on sneaking my camera back to auto, but as time went by, I became much better at getting manual exposure right. Start with the programming modes such as aperture or shutter priority, but remember that you won’t ever have full control there.

So why do we rather use manual exposure modes?

Exposure control

When using the auto function, your camera chooses exposure depending on the circumstances, but the camera can’t always get it right. You are most likely to run into problems when shooting with bright backgrounds. Want to shoot silhouettes at sunset?  You can only get that right by overexposing your subject.

Shortcut: Use flash to light your subject if needed, or exposure compensation.

Focus using manual exposure modes

Have you ever had pictures where the focus just wasn’t right? If you find that objects are blurry that were meant to be in focus, it is time to move on to the manual exposure. Here you have the control to decide where the focus point should be.

Notice the different focus points in the photos? This is difficult to achieve with the automatic function. I manually changed the focus spot for the two photos.

Tone problems

With the automatic function, your camera judges the light type, but it is difficult to get it right all the time. Once you take control, you gain the ability to set the white balance manually, depending on the lighting in the area. Choose between tungsten, florescent, sunshine and cloudy to name a few. Play around with them and get interesting results.

Shortcut: Post processing software can fix your wrong choices.

Low light conditions

Does your popup flash always activate in low light, giving your subjects a harsh appearance? This is a fundamental issue when you shoot in automatic. As soon as you choose manual camera settings, you can simply open the aperture, up your ISO and choose a slower shutter. You might need a tripod, but at least you will use the natural light.

At times you might want to underexpose images to create contrast. If I did not use manual camera settings, I would not have been able to achieve this.

Need a blurry background?

We are not talking about total blurry images, which can happen when using automatic setting because the camera compensates for low light conditions. The right kind of blur is when they are in backgrounds.  Simply use a larger aperture (smaller f-number) to create blurry backgrounds in images. If you want everything in focus, use a small aperture.

Shortcut: Aperture priority mode will allow you to choose your aperture, but the camera will take care of the rest if you are uncertain. This mode is also useful when weather conditions are changing constantly

Ability to freeze motion

Want to create blur on purpose? Setting a slower shutter speed to freeze motion, like when shooting that waterfall, will help with that.

Shortcut: Use shutter priority mode. This way you control the your speed, but your camera still makes the other decisions.

Full manual exposure is not the only way to go, but automatic mode is something that should not often be used. If you are not comfortable with full manual settings, revert to aperture and shutter priority. The key is to be comfortable in all of them and choose the best one for the situation.

With the ability to control the shutter speed you can use a deliberate slow speed to freeze motion.

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Photographs are effectively two–dimensional flat objects, but by using leading lines, you can add a lot of perspective to images. It helps with photo composition and takes the viewer on a visual journey, allowing their minds to wander deeper.

The good news is that there are no real rules when it comes to lines in photography. Numerous pictures break the rules and the results are still spectacular. So play around with different perspectives and see how deliberately adding leading lines could improve your work.

Leading lines can be a great way to draw eyes to the subject in the photo. In this instance, lines from the opposite end of the picture allow the attention to be placed on the elephant. The trees also frame the subject.

Here are some reasons why leading lines can improve your photos:

Leads the eye to the subject

Instead of just placing a subject in your image, leading lines is a great tool to help the viewer focus on what you want. It is almost like using force, but in a nice way.  Using lines is also one of the easiest ways to incorporate the rule of thirds into your photos without trying, leading to better photo composition.

In this photo, the walkway was used to lead the eye into the distance towards the beautifully coloured sky. A normal photo of a sunset without the walkway would not have had the same effect. It also assists with the photo composition.

Creating depth or symmetry

Instead of just capturing that flat image with some vegetation in the foreground and the sea as background, why not use a bridge or walkway to lead viewers towards the sea? Not only does this allow for extra depth, but it is also a good way to add symmetry. Usually the rules of composition states that one should not centre objects in your photo, but in this case the rule can be broken. This method will work best if your lines start from the corners of a photo.

Are you curious to see what is at the end of this road? The curved pathway as well the wall running symmetrically with it is a way to use leading lines to create suspense.

Creates distance in photos

Using lines such as pathways and roads is a great method to lead ones eye into the distance. It creates depth that might not have been there previously and allow the image to lead the viewer’s eye through the image, or part of an image into the distance.

In this photo, the walkway was used to lead the eye into the distance towards the beautifully coloured sky. A normal photo of a sunset without the walkway would not have had the same effect. It also assists with the photo composition.

Using leading lines to create suspense

If your lines lead somewhere into the distance and curve around a corner, viewers might just spend more time looking at your work. This is because you create suspense in their minds as they wonder where the pathway or road is heading. What is around that corner?

Are you curious to see what is at the end of this road? The curved pathway as well the wall running symmetrically with it is a way to use leading lines to create suspense.

Using lines differently

Lines are not always so obvious, but can add extra depth to any photo, especially with objects of different distances from the camera. Instead of zooming in on a subject such as a boat on the water, take a step back. If you include an interesting foreground object, like floating birds floating, or people swimming towards the boat, it can still lead the viewer’s eye to a distant subject.

Look around you, there are lines everywhere, from pathways, shorelines, roads, rock formations, boardwalks, clouds, shadows, trees and even the horizon itself. Whether you use these lines vertically, horizontally or diagonally, it is a great way to compose the picture and transform it from ordinary to extraordinary

Leading lines can be used vertically, horizontally or diagonally.

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Know your gear

The importance of knowing your equipment can’t be reiterated enough and it is no different when it comes to wildlife photography. Whether you have an entry level camera or professional equipment, without understanding it properly, you simply won’t get the desired results. Once you know what every single button’s function is and how to best use it, your nature photos will look much better.

Patience still a virtue

Wildlife photography requires a lot of patience. I have seen people visit nature reserves, but drive around all day, chasing time to spot as many animals as possible. However, wildlife photography should not be a race but rather a journey. Make time to sit at water points or bird hides. You would be surprised at the number of animals and birds that come when you wait, the perfect opportunity to get great nature photos.

Remember to spend as much time as possible with the animals, doesn’t matter if you are shooting something in your backyard or shooting herds of elephants or lions in a nature reserve. This will allow you to capture those intimate, interactive moments not often seen.

During a visit to Malgas Island just off the West Coast National Park in South Africa, the sea gulls were harassing were like vultures, waiting for any bird to let down their guard in order to steal an egg. With a bit of patience I captured this awesome photo just after it nicked an egg from a nest nearby.

Look for different angles

Telephoto lenses are a great investment as you can get very close to your subject. Play around with different angles when snapping your animal images. Get closer to your subjects; capture those razor sharp teeth or even the elephant’s wrinkles. Remember that eyes are the windows to the soul.

Shoot wider or closer

Sometimes it is good to take a step back and show some of the surroundings of the environment in your nature photos. In addition, also try and include the mood of the animal instead of just snapping another animal photo. Remember, a sense of scale can show the surroundings too.

Light is golden

Photography results come out better during the first rays of light and in the late afternoon. These are called the golden hours as the beautiful natural light enhances nature photos naturally. It is soft, golden, warm and magical. It adds that glow to any image and it is free!

Do you have great wildlife photos to share? Instead of just posting on Facebook, share and save them on a photo sharing website to preserve the quality of your nature photos. Don’t run the risk of losing your work. Visit www.slickpic.com for more.

Get different angles for your wildlife photos. You don’t always need an animal staring at the lens.

Get close to your subject with a telephoto or zoom lens. Surprisingly, elephants don’t have perfect ears.

Don’t always zoom into your photos. This image tells a bigger story due to the surroundings showcasing the area, in this case the very dry Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in South Africa

It would have been easy to take a close-up shot of a buffalo in this instance, but I took a step back and showcased these animal photos in a fever tree forest in the Kruger National Park.

Show emotion and interaction when capturing wildlife photos. It will make for interesting conversation afterwards.

Golden light is your friend in nature photography. This little one just stands out so much more with the conditions.

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With this image I zoomed out as the entire field was in flower. If I just focussed on a single flower, the effects would have been lost.

Take the best pictures of flowers this spring, and every other season in between

Whether you plan to play around in your own back garden or travelling to an exotic location to shoot some brilliant flower images, these tips will certainly improve your pictures. You don’t even need the most expensive equipment to create brilliant effects and take beautiful flower pictures.

Never be afraid to try different angles with your pictures of flowers. It might not be what you first had in mind, but it’s always good to try different perspectives.

Isolate your subject

One of the easiest ways to shoot beautiful flower images is to isolate them in the photo. One way to do this is with a shallow depth of field. Make sure that your background is of a contrasting colour as this will allow your picture to stand out.

Get down and dirty! These flowers were very close to the ground so I simply went flat on my stomach to create the angle.

Get up close to the flowers

The closer you get to your subject, the more interesting the results. Pick up that macro lens if you have one, but it is not the end of the world if you don’t. You can get good abstract flower images by using alternative lenses too and these shots often add a completely different perspective to your work. Look deeper and you will start seeing drops of pollen and all the life inside a flower.

Abstract can be good when it comes to flower images. Get closer and experiment with the unusual.

Keep it steady

One of the disadvantages when it comes to taking pictures of flowers is that you can’t really do it when the weather is not playing along. Unless you aim for an artistic shot of a field of beautiful flowers, rather steer clear of windy days. The only thing you will get is motion and blurry flowers, which is not necessary what you are after. Also, try and keep your shutter speed faster if you struggle to keep your camera steady without a tripod.

Isolate your subjects. The entire tree was busy flowering, so I picked a single spot to focus on, leaving the background blurry with a shallow depth of field.

Look at the bigger picture

While busy shooting those beautiful flowers from up close, take a moment and look around you. It is always important to take a step back and absorb the surroundings. It might be that the flower you focus on is part of an entire field spanning over great distances. In such cases, the picture speaks a thousand words.

This photo was taken on a breezy day, so you can see the slight blur despite the fast shutter speed.

Use a different perspective

Your point of view is very important when shooting flowers. Instead of just snapping beautiful flowers from the side, change your angle. Shoot your flowers from above or lie flat on your stomach for a low angle. You can even get the sun to light it from behind. Never be afraid to get your clothes dirty and experiment with different camera angles as you will get much better results. Always try and think of ways that will let your work stand out.

The best news is that beautiful flowers are easy to find, whether it is that rose in your garden or the bright yellow sunflower next to the road. Simply open up your eyes to the beauty around you.

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Creating silhouettes in sunset pictures add a nice element to your work.

Plan ahead

Before heading out during the golden hour, or blue hour, to shoot sunsets images, it is important to take note of the most important things. You have to plan ahead to achieve successful sunset pictures. First, find a good spot and then determine where the sunset takes place. A golden rule is to be there before it happens as the changes happen very fast. If you have a good foreground, the battle is half won already.

Look around. All the action might not be where the sun is setting.

Exposure

Shoot in different exposures to achieve spectacular photos. Underexposing often creates more spectacular sunset images. Never use the ‘auto’ function, but experiment with both aperture and shutter priority modes.  A slower shutter speed can create some amazing long exposure sunset shots. Also remember that high aperture values can create cool effects, adding some interesting elements to sunset pictures.  For better results, expose for both the sun and the scenery (use bracketing if your camera has the function). Many cameras have auto exposure lock. If you want to use this during sunset pictures, simply point your camera at the darkest part of the image and press this button. You can then reframe the image and point the camera at the sunset. Your image will be more overexposed.

Under expose sunset photos as this creates vivid colours and contrast.

Set the white balance

Don’t use Auto white balance when you shoot when you want great sunset photography results. Experiment with both cloudy and daylight. Once you get that right, you can even play around with others. Tungsten for example can create a cooling effect, creating a completely different mood.

Always stick around for longer as you might get more out of sunset pictures. This image was taken within 30 minutes after the sun set.

Take in the surroundings

With sunset photography, it is not only about the sunset. Look around you, sometimes there is another scene just behind you because of the coloring. Remember that the light still plays around for 30 minutes after the sunset.

Ever thought about overexposing your sunset images? This could create a different perspective to images.

Other tips for sunset photography

• Pack your tripod if you plant to include long exposure sunset pictures.
• A clean sensor is important. There is nothing like a speck of dust to spoil good sunset images.
• Use your flash to fill in details on people’s faces in sunset images.
• Leave the flash if you want to create a silhouette.
• Keep your horizon straight.

Grab your camera and head out this afternoon to achieve great results during the golden hour. The more you practice, the better results you will achieve with sunset pictures. Remember to submit your photos on SlickPic to ensure they are preserved.

The post Learn to shoot better sunset pictures appeared first on SlickPic Digital Photography School.

You don’t have to drop your hard-earned cash right away. In this post I will share some methods to experiment with macro photography before you decide to acquire that macro lens.

Found this little jumping spider and immediately decided to take some close up pictures. I sat down in the sun for optimal light and placed the little spider on my leg.

The reversal ring

One of the cheapest ways (less than $15) to start with macro photography right away is to purchase a reversal ring. This is what I did, but trust me, it takes a lot of practise and even more patience to get right.

A reversal ring allows you to mount your lens backwards on a camera. You will get life-size magnification, but because your lens elements are no longer talking to the camera, you will have to make your own decisions.  

You lose both your aperture control and autofocus and will have to adjust aperture manually (unless you have a lens where you can control this manually) to allow light into the lens. Another aspect to get used to is focus, which you will do by moving your camera closer and further away from your subject. A mere millimetre movement makes a difference, so hold your breath when you press the shutter. If you are in a hurry, you can forget about sharp macro photos.

It appeared like a bunch of black spots, but they were moving so I reversed my lens. The results were a close up photo of a bunch of insects on this flower.

This technique works best with prime lenses, so you will get good results with a 50mm lens. Standard kit lenses also work well with the technique.  I use my Nikon 18-55mm. They say macro photography is best practiced with a tripod, but I found that I can shoot handheld with this technique, as long as I am not too shaky.

Note that the above is my own personal experiences with the reverse macro technique. With a lot of practise you might even find it much easier, or improve the techniques than I have described.

Depth of field will also be extremely shallow and lighting may be a problem if it is not very bright. Most lenses have an aperture lever, so jam the lever to keep it open all the way.

Word of caution: Your lens elements are on the outside with this technique so be careful not to damage them. Dust can become a problem.  Try this technique in bright conditions or use a flash or light to enhance the photo.

Other techniques for close up pictures

There is always more than one way to achieve your desired results when it comes to macro photography. Close up lenses or filters that you screw at the end of your lens allow you to get closer to your subject while extension tubes are another method. More than one of these tubes can be stacked together to achieve even greater magnification. You also get bellows which is like extension tubes, but this collapsible design fits between a camera and lens, allowing the lens to be moved even further from the camera. If you feel adventurous, you can stack lenses together.  Generally, a lens with a longer focal length is attached followed by a shorter prime lens. They say that a 300mm lens with a 50mm lens will produce 6:1 notification, though it is not something that I have tried just yet.

This miniature flower was the size of my thumb nail. I just love how the sun rays reflect from the petals.

I always see what others miss. This small hairy worm was hidden next to the flower. I once again captured it with the available light and without the use of a macro lens.

Macro photography allows you to see the smaller details. I just love this one’s little face! I sat down on the ground next to the road when I spotted this fluffy-looking creature and snapped away.

Yes, macro photography will showcase the beauty in death, the fascinating opportunities in the mundane, without a macro lens.

The post Macro photography without investing in a close-up lens appeared first on SlickPic Digital Photography School.

Chances are that you will probably get to the beach sooner or later and of course, nobody is going to pass the chance to show off those lovely beach photos. Whether it is your friends having fun in the sun or something artistic for that frame, these tips will guide you towards better beach pictures.

This could have been a potential photo for a longer exposure as the incoming mist would have been great to experiment with.

Find a focus point

Beach landscapes and sea images look so much better once you have identified a focus point. Whether you choose a lonely figure, a silhouette of a friend as the sun sets or even that little boat on the white sand, the correct subject is important. Just remember that not all strangers like being photographed, so ask permission before you go wild with the people photography.

Place people in beach photos, but always make sure that you don’t upset anyone unnecessarily.

Composition in beach photos

The secret to any good images is a good fore and background! This will draw the viewer’s eyes to your subject and provide balance to beach photos. Remember the rule of thirds, but also keep in mind that rules are sometimes meant to be broken.

Silhouettes are great to enhance beach pictures. Try it next time at sunset.

Lighting

This plays a crucial role when you are on the beach. At midday, chances are that it will be difficult to get above average beach pictures. As a result, shoot a beach landscape during the early morning or late afternoons, during the golden hours. However, there are ways to improve the shot if you were to shoot during harsh times. You can try a neutral density filter to get better beach or sea pictures. This is like giving your camera sunglasses, so the harsh overexposed clouds and sand will look softer.

Would you not love to be here right now? This beach landscape was captured the late afternoon just before sunset. Always try and shoot early mornings and late afternoons during the golden hours.

Use Filters

Apart from the above mentioned filter, a good choice when it comes to beach photos and landscape photography in general is a polarising filter. This is a great addition as it will reduce glare and reflection when you take sea pictures. This filter can also create vibrant blue skies.

This beach photo was shot at a very low angle. In fact, I lied down flat on my stomach to capture the image to truly show the dunes in the background. Always try different perspectives and angles with your beach pictures.

Long exposure shots

Have you ever tried slowing down the shutter speed while shooting sea images? This creates silky seas and soft skies, adding a fairy tale dream element to beach photos. A neutral density filter, once again, is a great investment when you try this, along with a sturdy tripod. Long exposure sea images are certainly next on my list of things to try as I have not really played around with it.

Have you achieve amazing results with this? If so, are they saved on SlickPic? This easy storage solution will ensure that your images are kept safely, away from technological failures and wipe-outs.

The post Tips to take better beach photos during your next visit appeared first on SlickPic Digital Photography School.

However, getting spectacular bird images as you start out with photography can be difficult, especially when you are still getting to know your camera. We look at some basics photography tips on how to photograph them effortlessly.

1. Get to know your equipment

The most important photography tip for great bird pictures is to familiarise yourself with your gear. You don’t need the expensive equipment for great results. Use a zoom lens and practise until you get it right. A standard 55-200mm, 70-300mm or something similar is good to start with.

A shallow depth of field will ensure a nice blurry background that will draw attention to your subject.

2. Settings for perfect bird photos

The ‘auto’ setting is convenient, but simply pointing the camera and expecting a perfect bird photo might not be the best. The camera makes all the decisions, but your own creative decisions will lead to much better results.

For birding photography, try aperture priority, marked with an ‘A’ on Nikon cameras. This setting allows you to control the aperture (f-stop) while the camera controls the shutter speed. For bird images, you need a shallow depth of field and a fast shutter speed.

Birds in flight require more practise. You need a fast shutter speed to make sure the wings are not blurry. Generally, in bright conditions, a speed of at least 1/800 of a second should suffice. Play around with your ISO settings for the best results. ISO 100 or 200 is good but a lot can influence this.

For fast focus, set the focus mode to autofocus continuous servo (AF-C). This will help track the movement while continuously focussing. You can also select Dynamic AF Area which helps with focus tracking. Use burst mode to shoot multiple frames of your bird.

How not to do it. Here a cluttered background ruins the photo. It also shows why longer lenses work better. You just won’t get the same results with a kit lens when you are far from the bird.

3. Compose the perfect image

The closer you can get, the better your bird pictures. Create a blurry background by using a small f-stop and make sure the photo is not cluttered. Remember to get the bird’s eyes in focus and use natural light to your advantage.  Use the rule of thirds and if the subject is chicks, try to go down to their level.

If your shutter is too slow, you will get blurry bird pictures, especially when it comes to birds in flight. This photo was taken at 1/500 sec ISO 200 when the light was not as bright. A faster speed would have meant perfect results.

4. Read up on your subjects

The more you know about birds, the easier it becomes to take bird pictures. Some birds run before taking flight while others jump around erratically. The more you read up about them, the easier it will be to anticipating their moves.

Fast speed settings can do wonders when birds are flying. This bird was photographed at 1/1600 sec at ISO 200 with a Sigma 120-400mm lens.

5. Practise makes perfect

Continue playing around with your camera, even when you don’t get it right. Practise on your lovebirds at home, photograph birds in the garden and go on bird watching excursions. Always have fun and in next to no time, you will take great pictures of beautiful birds.

Bird images look so much better the closer you are.

Lighting is crucial. See the difference in the two images bird pictures.

Position the bird so it is somewhere in a third of the frame. You can draw imaginary vertical lines to ensure your placement is right.

The post Photography tips for beginners – taking perfect bird pictures appeared first on SlickPic Digital Photography School.

The moon is also a great subject to start you out in astrophotography. The full moon is generally large enough to shoot with a normal zoom or telephoto lens, but you still need the right equipment and planning to ensure the best moon pictures.

The right equipment

The most important will be a tripod to keep the camera steady. You don’t want a blurry, bright blob of a moon. Try a zoom lens of at least 300mm for moon photos as you can get pretty close. A shutter release cable is ideal to reduce shake when touching your camera, but if you don’t have one, use the self-timer.

Find the right moon phase

The internet is your friend as you would most likely want to shoot the full moon. Find a chart online to show you not only the moon phases, but also the time the moon rises and sets. In general, it is best to shoot the moon on a cloudless night, but there are exceptions, depending on your objectives with your moon pictures.

It is not always necessary to choose a clear night. In this image, I chose to shoot the moon in cloudy conditions as it added something interesting to the scene.

Camera settings

Remember that the full moon is bright because of the sun reflecting on it, so you can’t use long exposures. Some basic settings to use as reference for shooting the moon is a low ISO, fast shutter speed (try 1/125sec or 1/250sec) and an f-stop of f11 or f9. These settings don’t guarantee the best moon photos, but is a good starting point to work from. Play around until you find the setting that works best for you.

Composition

If you shoot the moon up close filling the entire frame, you can get amazing results with a lot of details, especially on the moon’s surface. Make your moon pictures different from the others out there. Find diff angles to make your moon images stand out from the rest out there. Often, a couple of clouds can add interesting elements to your shots. Try silhouettes, cityscapes, trees and even reflections of the moon in water.

Be creative and have fun taking moon pictures

By just playing around with your camera and creating some magic with post processing software, you can overlay images, or add the moon into night photography shots. You don’t always have to opt for the same close up shots of the moon. Create sequences with the next solar eclipse to showcase your skills.

Find out when the next full moon is and try your hand at astrophotography. However, there is no need to wait for the next full moon as you can shoot all the different phases of the moon.

Remember, sharing is caring. Don’t keep your moon pictures for yourself or lose them amongst all the files on your computer. Photo sharing sites not only allow you to showcase your amazing moon images, but it will also be kept safe, in its original size and format!

No need to only focus on the full moon only. Try and shoot other phases of the moon too.

Solar eclipses or the blood moon is great to shoot. If you have the time or energy to stay awake the entire night, you can shoot every moon phase and add them in sequence afterwards, creating some interesting moon pictures.

There is no need to only shoot the moon at night. It can also add something to your daylight photos.

In this scene I exposed the image for longer to get the scenery visible. In this case, one can shoot the moon with the correct exposure and overlay the two with post-processing software.

The post Simple photography tips to take better moon pictures appeared first on SlickPic Digital Photography School.